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Istanbul Turkey 2010
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Global
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When it is a special vacation you should allocate enough time to really immerse yourself and completely enjoy the experience. Having not taken off for more than a week in many years, 2010 presented me with a rare scenario, two weeks left to take or loose it. Not a chance! Betsey and I got out the imaginary dart board and came up with London and Istanbul. London to visit relatives we had not seem in awhile and Istanbul to see where West meets East and explore a new place. The plan unfolded as a stay in London for a few days, fly off to Turkey for a week and then back to London to finish. And for the most part it fell into place, with some minor adjustments dodging volcano ash clouds and threats of airline strikes. In a nutshell, it was fantastic! From the hotel (The W) to the city to the food to the sights, it was just one adventure after another. |
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Taksim Square and Sim Moda Evi
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| Our first assignment was to visit Taksim Square and track down Ismail Balci one of the best known bellydance costume designers in Istanbul and sample his wares and skills. It worked, Betsey was taken back and fitted for a couple of beautiful and unique outfits that just dazzle! |
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| Bread Vendors |
Funicular |
Republic Monument |
Sim Moda Evi Office |
Sim Moda Evi Team |
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Grand Bazzar
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| Next stop, the Grand Bazzar.  With 58 streets, over 1200 shops and attracting anywhere from 250,000 to 400,000 daily visitors this is one of the largest and oldest covered markets in the world. Founded in 1461 it seems to be a logical choice as Istanbul had been a major end point of the Silk Road. Its cobble stone streets contain every kind of trade store you can imagine- jewelry, pottery, spices, carpets, clothing and it just goes on and on. This has got to be where the term 'hustle and bustle' got coined, as it is everywhere. From the hawkers and merchants welcoming you into their stores to the gold and stock trading that is done right in the alleyways to the throngs of people looking for the ultimate bargain, you are taken away to another time and place while tempted to loosen the purse strings and delve into the hustle all around you. It is addicting and can create unplanned consequences (we have rugs to prove it), but that is what adventure is all about.
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| Grand Bazzar Entrance |
Bazzar Streets |
Bellydance Dresses |
Gold Market in Action |
Temptation |
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| Galata Tower
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| A great spot to get a 360º of both new and old town Istanbul is the Galata Tower. You can access it from several points and I suggest that you include a trip on the underground funicular Tünel from the Karaköy tram stop. You head for the pedestrian underpass, making sure that you get your token in advance as you will find that some of the public transport systems have their own token currency. Once you exit, veer to the left and round the first corner for the lower Tünel stop, get in queue and off you go. Once you get to the top station and you exit, go right and then right again and it is a nice downhill walk to the tower.
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| The tower standing at 205 feet, was built in the mid-14th century by the Genoese who controlled this part of the city while the Byzantines controlled the historic core of Constantinople. Primarily a tower of a defensive nature, it also was a show of power to those traveling in the region. There is an interesting historical feat involving the tower and Hezarfen Ahmet Çelebi, a 17th century aviation pioneer. Inspired by the drawings of Leonardo da Vinci, he built a set of wings to hang glide across the Bosphorus and made it to the Asian side at Üsküdar several miles away. And, according to local legends, he either was awarded a sack of gold from the sultan or the clergy had him exiled to North Africa (man was not meant to fly) or maybe both. How little has changed!
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| Galata Tower |
New Town |
Bosphorus Strait + Bridge |
Istanbul Asia |
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| Topkapi Palace |
Hagia Sophia |
Blue Mosque |
Tower Stone Work |
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| Sirkeci Train Station |
| On October 8th, 1883, the first overland voyage of the Orient Express arrived in Istanbul at the main train terminal, Sirkeci. Eighty hours and 1923 miles after departing Gare de l'Est in Paris, France, the discerning traveler of the day disembarked at this terminus of the Orient Express in the equally mysterious " Orient," having traveled through Munich, Vienna, Budapest and Bucharest. Guests were advised to carry a gun with them which gives us a glimpse into the frontier nature of heading " East." The service ran to and from Istanbul until May 19, 1977 when it was suspended and Budapest became the terminus. Service was disrupted during the two World Wars and routed around Germany for part of WWII. The train cars have become legendary and tell tales of the changing political climate of Europe in the 20th century, with many having been restored to their original elegance and working the tracks for the Venice-Simplon Orient Express luxury train. Betsey and I were fortunate to have spent our honeymoon riding this historical work of art between Victoria Station in London and Venice, Italy. The train rolls through pastoral countryside, alpine valleys surrounded by snow peaked mountains and gently passes through the vineyards of Italy before you disembark. A civilized scene for the most part, however the train gets a festive uplift from the Parisians when they board and the bar car is where they all migrate to. If you go, make sure you do not miss a visit to the bar car and share some spirits with your fellow passengers.
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| The station today is a mere shadow of its former self, but you can feel the history when you stroll in and if you let your imagination take you away, you can still hear the steam whistles beckoning travelers that it is time to head West. Efforts are underway to restore the historical section of the station and there is a small museum that holds artifacts of those days gone by. |
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| Station Exterior |
Station Interior |
Waiting Room Facade |
Old Shunter |
Waiting Room |
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| If you go... |
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We have some recommendations if you decide to take the plunge and visit this city of amazement and history.
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Hotel - We chose the W Istanbul, a Starwood property located among the historic Akaretler Row Houses that were the main quarters for the support staff of the nearby Dolmabahçe palace. If you are looking for a change of pace from the cookie cutter hotel, this is the place to go and it greets you as soon as you step inside. From the billowing fabrics floating above you propelled by the entrance way breezes, to the avant-garde interior decorations and a staff that is attentive as any we have seen, this is a great choice. And one of the concierges, Cem Manglay was the best we have ever had the pleasure to deal with and was an integral part of our wonderful stay.
Carpets - Located in the Grand Bazzar, Kemal Erol is a good choice and where we picked up two tribal design carpets. It has been featured in National Geographic Traveler and the owner is a character. (PS... These are our recommendations with no commercial attachment or compensation)
Restaurants - Sidika is just up the road from the W and a local favorite, serves meze style with a very accommodating owner who steered us through the menu. Our favorite dish was calamari and a must-have if you go.
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Now on to the historic side of town!
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