This particular trip posed one logistical challenge.  We were entering at Twin Lakes and exiting at Leavitt Meadows, about 30 odd miles apart.  Fortunately George was able to find a kind soul who picked us up at Leavitt Meadows, where we parked the car, and then dropped us off at the trailhead.  This was also a bit of an exceptional trip as we were not horse packing in but making our feet do the walking.   With those heavy packs we picked a trail that ascended fast  right from the get go.  We huffed and puffed our way into Horse Creek canyon and found the only nice spot around to camp and acclimate for the afternoon.  The ruggedness of the terrain contrasted  with the smooth weathered landscape that defines most of Emigrant Wilderness.   We were treated to some fantastic light dancing as the sun set behind cloudy skies.

Today was up and over into the saddle between Horse and Spiller Canyon so that George could tackle Matterhorn Peak.   All went well as we ascended from our camp site at Horse Creek.  For awhile there was a good use trail but we soon decided on  a straight cross country route.   The going was more vertical than the day before, but we finally settled in and found a good launch spot for George.  As he climbed and bagged Matterhorn, I lazed around and studied the map for our next move.   We had planned to hop over a ridge to get to Burro Pass, but the route, elevation gain and those heavy packs steered us into Spiller Canyon for the night.

Now we are a bit behind schedule.  The  night in Spiller Canyon was peaceful but the next day loomed with a choice of a long hike or a hefty cross country ridge climb.  We started out with the hike option but soon abandoned it when we spied a ridge that was doable.  Up and over, " huff n puff" , we made it even though the last 200 feet was close to vertical in patches.  After a refreshing dip in the creek, we headed up canyon to find a rest spot for the night and to catch up with our itinerary.

The best word to describe this day is mosquito bait.  We were up early and determined to put some trail miles under our feet to get to Thompson Canyon.  The run up to Burro Pass was a good start in our attempt to beat the heat and sun.  We crested, ate some lunch and then headed towards Mule Pass.  The breeze was just right until we started the climb up to Mule, and as we hit protected pockets those tiny flying dinosaurs would track us down and attack.  They were relentless.  Our chosen camp site was windy when we set up, but as you suspect the breeze disappeared and we dove into the tents after dinner to escape the onslaught.

The best part of this day was getting away from mosquito's and finally setting down for at least 2 days without moving camp sites.  We started early and moved at a good pace until we got close to a trailhead that lead to a hot shower and some rest.  Needless to say, I avoided the temptation and continued on knowing that I would never be allowed to forget that moment of weakness if I had succumbed to it.  The day took us by Peeler Lake, another ridge climb and we settled down at a nice site in gorgeous Thompson Canyon.  What a peaceful, beautiful slice of wilderness heaven.

Rest day with a cool soak in Thompson Canyon Creek.   Of course George was off to successfully climb Wells and Ehrnbech peaks.   A bit of rain in the afternoon and we topped it off with a nice meal and star gazing

A short move, quick camp set up and off to climb Hawksbeak Peak.  A pretty easy stroll from where we were camped to the base, and then a short stretch of up and we were on the top.  Great views to be had and we basked in the warm sunshine.  As we returned to our camp site, the clouds rolled in pretty fast.    After a quick hot lunch we dove into the tents just seconds before an hour of rain-sleet-hail-rain.    The weather broke, the sun beat down and within a few moments we had forgotten the cold and rain.  George took the opportunity to run up Center Mountain   before sunset for another bag.

Time to head home.  We rose early and started the day looking forward to some serious downhill.  After negotiating one dead  end  route  and switchbacking granite ledges,we found an easy drop to Kirkwood Pass and trail.  Once there, it was all downhill with a beautiful day to match.  Could not ask for much more.  We settled in at a sheltered camp site and proceeded to wash off the dust and midday heat in the lazy and meandering Kirkwood Creek, and did it feel refreshing!!  Sundown came to wash Tower Peak in a gentle glow.  Several deer ambled by grazing the plentiful grass in the meadow.   One more day of perfection.

Time to leave.   This was an easy day as we had only 1.5 miles to catch our ride out.   You see, we cheat either on the way in or out.   Gives us more time in the back country and supports the local pack stations who have as much stake as backpackers in preserving the wilderness experience.   Our thanks to Bart and company for many safe trips.   Well it comes to an end again, but we will be back for our nineteenth year in 2005!